Thursday, September 8, 2011

Winter's Tree

 UPDATED!

Originally inspired by Buttony Sweater by Katie Marcus, the design of Winter's Pine and Winter's Oak (combined to create "Winter's Tree") is a modern, yet simple sweater. The off center buttons and asymmetrical collar give it an edgy look, but with the form fit design element, it makes it classy and elegant. I first used a variegated yarn by Malabrigo (Winter's Pine version) of which was so yummy to knit with! My only issue was that it pills like crazy, and that drives me mad. So the second time around (Winter's Oak) I used Rowan Alpaca Cotton.  This sweater can be knit with one color, two or even more! The pattern below is that of Winter's Oak,  but it can easily be altered to fit your own vision. Enjoy! (Special techniques used are at the bottom. Please visit "The Basics" on my blog if you need help on the basic abbreviations/techniques.)



 
Materials:
·  6 (6, 7, 7, 7) skeins Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Brazil 403); 1 skein Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Rice 400); 148 yds per skein
·   Circular US size 8 & 10 32” +
·  Stitch markers
Sizes: 
·   Bust: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)
·   Finished Bust: 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) – allows for a nice fit with shirts underneath +1.5 -2” for buttons
·   Finished Length: 23.5” (24, 25, 25.5, 26)
Gauge:
4.75st/in; 6rows/in

CO 175 (185, 195, 205, 215) with MC using 2x1 ribbed long tail cast on method
Rows 1-3, & 6: 2x1 rib in MC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2) (each size isn’t perfectly divisible by 3, so you’ll have an extra stitch or two at the end of the row depended on the size.)
Rows 4, 5, 7, & 8: 2x1 rib in CC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)
Continue with MC until total ribbed edge is 3 (3, 4, 4.5, 5) inches
Begin decreases (side shaping) as follows (dec. 4st every 5 rows 7x):
1)      s1 k36 (38, 41, 44, 47) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k75 (81, 85, 89, 93) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k49 (51, 54, 57, 60) p1 k3
2)      s1 p2 k1 p48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p73 (79, 83, 87, 91) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p36 (38, 41, 44, 47)
3)      s1 k34 (36, 39, 42, 45) ssk k1 k2tog k71 (77, 81, 85, 89) ssk k1 k2tog k47 (49, 52, 55, 58) p1 k3
4)      s1 p2 k1 p46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p69 (75, 79, 83, 87) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p34 (36, 39, 42, 45)
5)      s1 k32 (34, 37, 40, 43) ssk k1 k2tog k67 (73, 77, 81, 85) ssk k1 k2tog k45 (47, 50, 53, 56) p1 k3
6)      s1 p2 k1 p44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p65 (71, 75, 79, 83) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p32 (34, 37, 40, 43)
7)      s1 k30 (32, 35, 38, 41) ssk k1 k2tog k63 (69, 73, 77, 81) ssk k1 k2tog k43 (45, 48, 51, 54) p1 k3
Knit in st. st. for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75) inches ending on a WS row
Begin increases as follows (inc. 4st every 5 rows 6x):
1)      s1 k31 (33, 36, 39, 42) m1r k1 m1L k65 (71, 75, 79, 83) m1r k1 k1L k44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p1 k3
2)      s1 p2 k1 p45 (47, 50, 53, 56) m1rP p1 m1LP p67 (73, 77, 81, 85) m1rP p1 m1LP p33 (35, 38, 41, 44)
3)      s1 k33 (35, 38, 41, 44) m1r k1 m1L k69 (75, 79, 83, 87) m1r k1 m1L k46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p1 k3
4)      s1 p2 k1 p47 (49, 52, 55, 58) m1rP p1 m1LP p71 (77, 81, 85, 89) m1rP p1 m1LP p35 (37, 40, 43, 46)
5)      s1 k35 (37, 40, 43, 46) m1r k1 m1L k73 (79, 83, 87, 91) m1r k1 m1L k48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p1 k3
6)      s1 p2 k1 p49 (51, 54, 57, 60) m1rP p1 m1LP p75 (81, 85, 89, 93) m1rP p1 m1Lp p37 (39, 42, 45, 48)
You should have 4 less stitches than you CO with – 171 (181, 191, 201, 211)
Knit until total piece measures 18 (18.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5) inches and place all stitches on hold using waste yarn



Sleeves (knit in the round):
Using a provisional CO, cast on 36 (36, 39, 42, 42) stitches with a size US 10 needle (CO more stitches for a loser fit)
Knit in a 2x1 rib for 3”; switch to a size US 8 needle and continue for another 1.5” ending 3sts before beginning of next row
Dec. 4 sts for transition:
  *ssk k1 k2tog* continue ribbing pattern until 3 sts before the halfway point of the row and repeat from * to * continue ribbing pattern until EOR
Knit in st. st for 1”
Inc. 2st every 13th row 5x (on the inside of arm, wherever you choose that to be) making sure there are 2 st in between your increases
Inc. 2st every 7th row 3x
Repeat this for other sleeve and place all stitches on hold

Attaching sleeves to body:
Note: Remove markers as you come to them
Rethread needles (RS facing you rethread to the left – front right side of piece) picking up stitches until you reach 6st before your first marker (front right) – place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (that will remain on hold) from sleeve and continue to pick up the body stitches (back side) until you reach 6st before first marker on backside (back left) – place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (will remain on hold) from sleeve and pick up the remaining stitches on body (front left)
Knit 1 row and purl back

219 (229, 245, 261, 271) sts should be on the needle.

Shoulder Shaping:
1)      s1 k21 (23, 26, 29, 32) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k52 (55, 59, 63, 68) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k35 (38, 43, 46, 50)  p1 k3
2)      s1 k20 (22, 25, 28, 31) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31, 32) ssk k2 k2tog k50 (53, 57, 61, 66) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31, 32) ssk k2 k2tog k34 (37, 42, 45, 49)  p1 k3

Short row sleeve shaping:
 s1 knit until 2st before markers on the back right (2nd set of markers) WT; purl until 2st before marker (1st set) WT; *knit until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT; purl until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT* Repeat once *to*
 knit across picking up wraps as you go (there will be 3) until you reached the last stitch on knit side before marker WT; purl across picking up wraps (3) until last stitch before maker WT; knit back across picking up the last wrapped knit stitch and continue across until you reach the other sleeve and repeat the same thing.
After repeating on the other sleeve and have knit all the way until the end of the row, purl back picking up the 2 remaining wraps on the purl side (1 per sleeve)
Resume with should decreases (using the same technique as before) until front right has a total (from 1st stitch until 1st marker) of 18 (20, 23, 26, 30)– this will be a total of 6 decrease rows (12 total with purled rows)

Back Shaping:
 Knit (continue the dec for the shoulder) until 4st before back left marker WT; purl until 3st before back right marker WT; *knit until 2st before last wrapped st WT; purl until 2st before last wrapped st WT* Repeat once *to*
Knit across picking up wraps (3) until  2nd to last st before back left marker WT; purl picking up wraps (3) until 2nd to last stitch before marker WT; knit across picking in the last knit wrapped stitch and knit all the way across (don’t forget to continue those shoulder decreases!) Purl back picking up last wrapped stitch
 Continue shoulder dec for another 1.25” – total of 10 decrease rows (20 total with purled rows)
 Knit st st for 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) rows and begin 2x1 ribbing – 3”, Your size may not end up with a divisible by 3 number for the collar, that’s okay, just knit the extra stitch or two at the end of the row
 Alternate ribbing for fold over collar – 2x1 on WS (which will technically be right side when folded)
BO the 12st per sleeve under the arms using a three needle BO.
Add button holes to your liking using the Japanese technique - whipstitch a hole wherever you want your buttons – or use any technique you like!
Sew up the holes at the underarms and sew in all your ends!



Special Abbreviations & Techniques:
  m1L = make one left; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle into front and knit the stitch through the back loop
m1r = make one right; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle into back and knitting the stitch normal
  m1LP = make one left purl side; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle into back and purling the stitch normal
  m1rP = make one right purl side; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle into front and purling the stitch through the back loop
  WT = wrap and turn work; if on knit side bring yarn to front, slip stitch knit-wise bring yarn to back slip purl-wise, turn work – if on purl side bring yarn to back slip stitch purl-wise bring yarn to front slip stitch purl-wise and turn work
  Picking up wraps = Knit side – lift wrap from under and place on needle behind the stitch that it was wrapped and knit them together through the back loops; Purl side – lift wrap from the RS of work and place on needle untwisted and p2tog


Copyright 2011, Alisha Bright. All Rights Reserved.

9 comments:

  1. Thanks for making this a free pattern. I think I will knit this next using my Tosh MCN Worsted.

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  2. I check all your patterns here and they are great. Thanks very much for sharing and the way you describe them make me to wish to do them even if I am not good at knitting ... I have different area of creation

    check this out please
    http://beadingcrafting.blogspot.com/

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  3. Very pretty.
    I will have to make this in 2012

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  4. I have 'Buttony' in my queue. I might make your pattern instead.
    Fabulous pattern and for free too!! Excellent :)

    WGD

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  5. They're great :-) Thank you soooo much for sharing them with us. I love winter's pine, where would I alter the pattern to move the buttons across to the side like on yours? Thanks ((huggies))

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  6. Glad you like the design! They both have side buttons, but to make a more noticeable or dramatic side button panel, in the instructions place the very first marker after fewer stitches and then follow the general pattern but your number of stitches before and after the first stitch marker will be altered. Depending on how far you want it to be will depend on how many stitches.

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  7. I've been looking for an asymmetrical collared cardigan for so long...and yours is it! Thank you thank you for sharing this great pattern with us.

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  8. Not really sure from the pictures, but is the side panel about an inch or so farther to the left in winter's pine? Really like how it is done and would love to try and copy it.

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    Replies
    1. Nope, they're the same. The difference is that Winter's Oak (the brown one) was made for a 36 bust and it's on a 32 mannequin so it's fit looks different. Whereas Winter's Pine is a 34 sweater on a 34 model. Glad you like it. :)

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