illumiknit designs

A Scoop of Neapolitan

2011-09-29T19:21:00.000-07:00

If you haven't noticed, I like sharing stories with my patterns...

I'm always amazed at how much goes into a project. It's more than yarn, needles and time. It's love, creativity, and passion. I was inspired to enter a hat contest where the participation fees and hats would be donated to a local charity, The Welfare League. The 2 winners would receive a prize basket, $100 gift card to the yarn store (Cast Away) and the hat would remain on display in the store accompanied with the free pattern! It was announced today that I was one of the winners! So, here, I offer you (my followers who don't live here and have the opportunity to go into the yarn shop) my pattern! (Note: I can't figure out to have a PDF available for download yet, so if you want the PDF version, shoot me an e-mail! angelknitcreations@gmail.com) Visit http://illuminknitdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/06/basics_15.html for a list of abbreviations and techniques. Enjoy!

A Scoop of Neapolitan

Materials:

· 3 skeins of Blue Sky Alpaca Skinny Dyed (100%Organic Cotton; 150yds/137m; 65grams); 1 skein of each color (Approx. 43 yds ofeach color used): 304 (Zinc), 30 (birch), 305 (pink); Any green and red fromstash/scrap yarn (very little is needed)

· US size 4 and 2 circular needles 16” (or whatever size needed to obtain gauge)

· Tapestry needle

· 2 stitch markers

· 2 -4 cotton balls (or any kind of stuffing)

Gauge:

6 sts/8.5 rows = 1 inch

Sizes:

· Newborn - 3 months

·3- 6 months

·6- 12 months

·12- 18 months

Note: This hat is madeusing the magic loop method on circular needles, however you can substitute forDPNS.

Using a provisional caston, CO 80 (88, 96, 104) stitches with zinc (brown). There are a few ways to do the provisionalcast on, use the method that works for you (there are some great youtube videoson it).

Join in round, placing amarker at the beginning of the row.

Rows 1-3: Knit

Row 4: *k2 m1r k1 sskk2tog k1 m1L* to EOR

Row 5: Knit

Repeat rows 4 and 5 2x.

With a smaller needle,pick up CO stitches starting at the beginning of the row.

Row 10: Knit CO stitchesstogether with live stitches creating a hem

Row 11: Repeat row 4

Knit 11 (12, 13, 14) rows

Cut yarn leaving a 6”tail, switch to birch (cream)

Knit 1 row

Repeat rows 4 and 5 2x

Knit 10 (11, 12, 13) rows

Cut yarn leaving a 6”tail, switch to pink

Knit 1 row

Repeat rows 4 and 5 2x

Knit 5 (6, 7, 8) rows

Begin decreases asfollows:

K3 (4, 5) *ssk k2tog k4*repeat to EOR

Knit 2 rows st st.

*K2 (3, 4) ssk k2tog* repeat to EOR

Knit 2 row st st.

K1 *ssk k2tog* repeat toEOR

Knit 2 rows st st.

*ssk k2tog* repeat to EORending with ssk

Knit 1 row

Cut yarn and threadthrough remaining stitches, but don’t sew in ends.

Cherries (optional):

Stem (3st i-cord):

CO3 sts (long tail CO method)

· If you’re using circulars, slide allstitches along the cable (circular part of the needle) onto the other needle. k3sts being sure to pull tightly on the first st.

· If you’re using DPNs, simply slidests to the right on the same needle, and k3 being sure to pull tightly on thefirst st.

Repeat until i-cordmeasures 6” and attach to top of hat securely using the end from the top of thehat (pink).

Cherries (make 2):

Note: Fingering or DKweight recommended (DK will result in a larger cherry. Knit from top of cherry,down)

CO 8 st using long tail CO method and smallerneedle (size 2; use size 4 for DK weight)

Rows 1, 3 & 5: knit

Rows 2 & 4: *m1 k1* to EOR

Row 6: m1 *k1 m1* to EOR

Rows 7-9: knit

Row 10: *k1 ssk k1 ssk k2 k2tog k1 k2tog k1*to EOR

Rows 11 & 13: knit

Row 12: k1 ssk ssk k2tog k2tog k1

Row 14: k1 ssk k2tog k1

Stuff cotton ball(s) into cherry until plump.

Cut yarn and thread through remainingstitches.

Using your tapestryneedle, attach cherries to stems by pulling end of stem yarn all the waythrough the cherry. Take the end of yarn that’s at the bottom of the cherry andsew through to the top of it, and thread through center of stem. Skip last barthat thread is through and sew back down through stem to the bottom of thecherry. This secures it.

Cut yarn, sew ends andblock!

Winter's Tree

2011-09-08T23:54:00.000-07:00

UPDATED!

Originally inspired by Buttony Sweater by Katie Marcus, the design of Winter's Pine and Winter's Oak (combined to create "Winter's Tree") is a modern, yet simple sweater. The off center buttons and asymmetrical collar give it an edgy look, but with the form fit design element, it makes it classy and elegant. I first used a variegated yarn by Malabrigo (Winter's Pine version) of which was so yummy to knit with! My only issue was that it pills like crazy, and that drives me mad. So the second time around (Winter's Oak) I used Rowan Alpaca Cotton. This sweater can be knit with one color, two or even more! The pattern below is that of Winter's Oak, but it can easily be altered to fit your own vision. Enjoy! (Special techniques used are at the bottom. Please visit "The Basics" on my blog if you need help on the basic abbreviations/techniques.)

Materials:

· 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) skeins Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Brazil 403); 1skein Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Rice 400); 148 yds per skein

· Circular US size8 & 10 32” +

· Stitch markers

Sizes:

· Bust: 34 (36,38, 40, 42)

· FinishedBust: 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) – allows for a nice fit with shirts underneath +1.5-2” for buttons

· FinishedLength: 23.5” (24, 25, 25.5, 26)

Gauge:

4.75st/in;6rows/in

CO 175 (185, 195,205, 215) with MC using 2x1 ribbed long tail cast on method

Rows 1-3,& 6: 2x1 rib in MC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2) (each size isn’t perfectly divisible by 3, so you’ll have an extrastitch or two at the end of the row depended on the size.)

Rows 4, 5, 7, &8: 2x1 rib in CC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)

Continue with MCuntil total ribbed edge is 3 (3, 4, 4.5, 5) inches

Begindecreases (side shaping) as follows (dec. 4st every 5 rows 7x):

1) s1 k36 (38, 41, 44, 47) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k75(81, 85, 89, 93) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k49 (51, 54, 57, 60) p1 k3

2) s1 p2 k1 p48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p73(79, 83, 87, 91) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p36 (38, 41, 44, 47)

3) s1 k34 (36, 39, 42, 45) ssk k1 k2tog k71 (77, 81, 85,89) ssk k1 k2tog k47 (49, 52, 55, 58) p1 k3

4) s1 p2 k1 p46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p69(75, 79, 83, 87) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p34 (36, 39, 42, 45)

5) s1 k32 (34, 37, 40, 43) ssk k1 k2tog k67 (73, 77, 81,85) ssk k1 k2tog k45 (47, 50, 53, 56) p1 k3

6) s1 p2 k1 p44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p65(71, 75, 79, 83) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p32 (34, 37, 40, 43)

7) s1 k30 (32, 35, 38, 41) ssk k1 k2tog k63 (69, 73, 77,81) ssk k1 k2tog k43 (45, 48, 51, 54) p1 k3

Knit in st.st. for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75) inches ending on a WS row

Beginincreases as follows (inc. 4st every 5 rows 6x):

1) s1 k31 (33, 36, 39, 42) m1r k1 m1L k65 (71, 75, 79,83) m1r k1 k1L k44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p1 k3

2) s1 p2 k1 p45 (47, 50, 53, 56) m1rP p1 m1LP p67 (73,77, 81, 85) m1rP p1 m1LP p33 (35, 38, 41, 44)

3) s1 k33 (35, 38, 41, 44) m1r k1 m1L k69 (75, 79, 83,87) m1r k1 m1L k46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p1 k3

4) s1 p2 k1 p47 (49, 52, 55, 58) m1rP p1 m1LP p71 (77,81, 85, 89) m1rP p1 m1LP p35 (37, 40, 43, 46)

5) s1 k35 (37, 40, 43, 46) m1r k1 m1L k73 (79, 83,87, 91) m1r k1 m1L k48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p1 k3

6) s1 p2 k1 p49 (51, 54, 57, 60) m1rP p1 m1LP p75 (81,85, 89, 93) m1rP p1 m1Lp p37 (39, 42, 45, 48)

You shouldhave 4 less stitches than you CO with – 171 (181, 191, 201, 211)

Knit untiltotal piece measures 18 (18.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5) inches and place allstitches on hold using waste yarn

Sleeves (knit in the round):

Using aprovisional CO, cast on 36 (36, 39, 42, 42) stitches with a size US 10 needle (COmore stitches for a loser fit)

Knit in a 2x1rib for 3”; switch to a size US 8 needle and continue for another 1.5” ending3sts before beginning of next row

Dec. 4 sts fortransition:

*ssk k1 k2tog* continue ribbing pattern until3 sts before the halfway point of the row and repeat from * to * continue ribbingpattern until EOR

Knit in st. stfor 1”

Inc. 2st every13^th row 5x (on the inside of arm, wherever you choose that to be)making sure there are 2 st in between your increases

Inc. 2st every7^th row 3x

Repeat thisfor other sleeve and place all stitches on hold

Attachingsleeves to body:

Note: Removemarkers as you come to them

Rethreadneedles (RS facing you rethread to the left – front right side of piece)picking up stitches until you reach 6st before your first marker (front right)– place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (thatwill remain on hold) from sleeve and continue to pick up the body stitches(back side) until you reach 6st before first marker on backside (back left) –place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (will remain onhold) from sleeve and pick up the remaining stitches on body (front left)

Knit 1 row andpurl back

219 (229, 245,261, 271) sts should be on the needle.

ShoulderShaping:

1) s1 k21 (23, 26, 29, 32) ssk PM k2 PM k2togk29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k52 (55, 59, 63, 68) ssk PM k2PM k2tog k29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k35 (38, 43, 46, 50) p1 k3

2) s1 k20 (22, 25, 28, 31) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31,32) ssk k2 k2tog k50 (53, 57, 61, 66) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31, 32) sskk2 k2tog k34 (37, 42, 45, 49) p1 k3

Short row sleeve shaping:

s1 knit until 2st before markerson the back right (2^nd set of markers) WT; purl until 2st beforemarker (1^st set) WT; *knit until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT;purl until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT* Repeat once *to*

knit across picking up wraps asyou go (there will be 3) until you reached the last stitch on knit side beforemarker WT; purl across picking up wraps (3) until last stitch before maker WT;knit back across picking up the last wrapped knit stitch and continue acrossuntil you reach the other sleeve and repeat the same thing.

After repeating on the other sleeve and have knit all the way until theend of the row, purl back picking up the 2 remaining wraps on the purl side (1per sleeve)

Resume with should decreases (using the same technique as before) untilfront right has a total (from 1^st stitch until 1^stmarker) of 18 (20, 23, 26, 30)– this will be a total of 6 decrease rows (12total with purled rows)

Back Shaping:

Knit (continue the dec for the shoulder) until4st before back left marker WT; purl until 3st before back right marker WT;*knit until 2st before last wrapped st WT; purl until 2st before last wrappedst WT* Repeat once *to*

Knit acrosspicking up wraps (3) until 2^ndto last st before back left marker WT; purl picking up wraps (3) until 2^ndto last stitch before marker WT; knit across picking in the last knit wrappedstitch and knit all the way across (don’t forget to continue those shoulderdecreases!) Purl back picking up last wrapped stitch

Continue shoulder dec for another 1.25” –total of 10 decrease rows (20 total with purled rows)

Knit st st for 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) rows andbegin 2x1 ribbing – 3”, Your size may not end up with a divisible by 3 numberfor the collar, that’s okay, just knit the extra stitch or two at the end ofthe row

Alternate ribbing for fold over collar – 2x1on WS (which will technically be right side when folded)

BO the 12stper sleeve under the arms using a three needle BO.

Add buttonholes to your liking using the Japanese technique - whipstitch a hole whereveryou want your buttons – or use any technique you like!

Sew up theholes at the underarms and sew in all your ends!

Special Abbreviations& Techniques:

m1L = make one left; pick up line between twostitches by inserting left needle into front and knit the stitch through theback loop

m1r = make one right; pick up line betweentwo stitches by inserting left needle into back and knitting the stitch normal

m1LP = make one left purl side; pick up linebetween two stitches by inserting left needle into back and purling the stitchnormal

m1rP = make one right purl side; pick up linebetween two stitches by inserting left needle into front and purling the stitchthrough the back loop

WT = wrap and turn work; if on knit sidebring yarn to front, slip stitch knit-wise bring yarn to back slip purl-wise,turn work – if on purl side bring yarn to back slip stitch purl-wise bring yarnto front slip stitch purl-wise and turn work

Picking up wraps = Knit side – lift wrap fromunder and place on needle behind the stitch that it was wrapped and knit themtogether through the back loops; Purl side – lift wrap from the RS of work andplace on needle untwisted and p2tog

With a Twist of Mustard

2011-08-17T10:47:00.000-07:00

This yarn and pattern have a story...

My boyfriend and I went on a road trip to Portland, Oregon in Nov of 2010 from Sonoma County, CA. Now, if you're a knitter or super into socks like me, you know that Portland is the place to be. First stop was Sock Dreams - a cute, old fashioned house turned into a store full of the coolest socks, gloves, leg warmers, etc. I of course wanted to buy everything in the store, but only had so much money. So I picked out my favorite socks, and then BAM! These AMAZING gloves! A gorgeous mustard yellow, with simple, elegant cables. They were perfect, but I wasn't sure I wanted to spend $24 on 1 pr. of gloves when I was already spending $30 on socks. So, I observed them... and we went on our merry way after purchasing our stuff. Next stop was Twisted - an absolutely heart racing, jaw dropping yarn store. After spending who knows how long in this comfortable, coffee shop/yarn store/knitters hang out, I found the perfect yarn...a gorgeous, dimensional, mustard colored yarn (Warm Glow by Black Trillium fibre studio). That was it. This was the yarn I would use to make the irresistible gloves I saw in Sock Dreams. So here they are! There are some slight differences that I made so that they were "mine", but the overall feel remains.

Link to original gloves:

http://www.sockdreams.com/products/accessories/arm-warmers/?p=2&sort=SortOrder&pp=15

Materials:

1 skeins of any sock/fingering weight yarn of at least 200 yards (I used Warm Glow by Black Trillium fibre studio [she's on etsy])

Needle Size: US circular 1 24”+

Gauge: 9st/in

Techniques:

Cable: place 3sts. on DPN hold front, k3, k3from DPN

M1: make one stitch by knitting into stitch normal and then without pulling stitch off, knit into the back – creating 1 extra stitch

BO: Bind off stitches as they appear

Wrist Cuff

CO 60 st using 2x2 ribbed long tail cast on method

Knit in a 2x2 ribbing for 3”

Right Glove:

Rows 1-10: k2 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k2 p2

Cable – on the same row begin increases for thumb as follows:

Row 11: k2 m1 p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 k2 m1 p2

Rows 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: Knit stitches as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls)

Row 13: k3 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k3 m1 p2

Row 15: k4 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k4 m1 p2

Row 17: k5 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k5 m1 p2

Row 19: k6 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 m1 p2

Row 21: k7 m1 p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 k7 m1 p2

Row 23: k8 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k8 m1 p2

Row 25: k9 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k9 m1 p2

Row 27: k10 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k10 m1 p2

Row 29: k11 m1 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k11 m1 p2

Thumb:

Row 30: k10 sts. Place all other stitches on hold, except for the last 12 sts. Pull out needle and knit the last 12 sts. as they appear

Rows 31-40: Knit sts. as they appear in the round

BO fairly snug (unless you need a bit of extra stretch, then make your last row a 1x1 rib and BO st as they appear)

Left Glove:

Rows 1-10: k2 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k2 p2

Cable – on the same row begin increases for thumb as follows:

Row 11: m1 k2 p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 m1 k2 p2

Rows 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: Knit stitches as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls)

Row 13: m1 k3 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k3 p2

Row 15: m1 k4 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k4 p2

Row 17: m1 k5 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k5 p2

Row 19: m1 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k6 p2

Row 21: m1 k7 p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 m1 k7 p2

Row 23: m1 k8 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k8 p2

Row 25: m1 k9 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k9 p2

Row 27: m1 k10 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k10 p2

Row 29: m1 k11 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 m1 k11 p2

Thumb:

Row 30: k10 sts. Place all other stitches on hold, except for the last 12 sts. Pull out needles and knit the last 12 sts. as they appear

Rows 31-40: Knit sts. as the appear in the round

BO fairly snug (unless you need a bit of extra stretch, then make your last row a 1x1 rib and BO)

Rethread needles and increase 1st at the beginning of the row and 1st at the end (these will be the inside purl sts.)

Row 1: K2 p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 cable p4 k2 p2

Rows 2-11: k2 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k6 p4 k2 p2

2x2 ribbing for as long as desired and BO

The Knitting Bohemian

2011-06-21T10:17:00.000-07:00

This top is one of my most favorite that I have designed. I first began knitting shirts by simply thinking up something I wanted to make and tried making it. With no real knowledge of shaping or measurements and a few first failed attempts, this was my second success at creating exactly what I had pictured. There are definitely changes that I would make, so please feel free and edit this pattern to your desires. By all means, this is not a professional written or designed pattern, but I have had so many people asking for it, I decided to share it. Any feedback on how to make it better would be great!

Share your version with me and others on Ravelry! http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-knitting-bohemian

Please view this page for a list of abbreviations and techniques: http://illuminknitdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/06/basics_15.html

Materials:

· Yarn: Hempton (40% Cotton 30% Hemp 30% Modal); 3 (3, 4, 4) skeins Beige (069) (MC); 2 skeins Olive Green (066) (CC)

· Needles: size US 5 circular 40” and US 2 circular 40”

· 8 beads of your choice or more if you want!

· 1 button of your choice

Gauge: Size US 5: 5st/in 9 rows/in; Size US 2: 5.5st/in 9.5 rows/in

Size: XS (S, M, L)

Bust: 32 (34, 36, 38)

Note: This pattern is done in the round working on the magic loop (circular needles) and is knit bottom up.

Bottom Ribbing

CO 200 (210, 220, 230) stitches with size 5 needles with CC making sure to place a marker at the beginning of the row and exactly halfway through the row

Knit in a 3x2 ribbing for 1.75 (1.75 ,2, 2.25) inches

Switch to MC & size 2 needles. Knit gradient as follows (continuing 3x2 ribbing):

MC – knit 1 row; CC – Knit 3 rows; MC – knit 2 rows; CC – knit 2 rows; MC – knit 3 rows; CC – knit 1 row; MC – knit 4 rows

Knit 1 row with MC

Decreases (if you need less waist shaping, replace some decrease rows with regular knit rows)

Begin side dec. as follows (decreasing 4 st every 3 rows 12x):

Row 1: Start at the end of the last row that was knit with 2 stitches left unknit - ssk (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 94 (99, 104, 109) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog knit 97 (102, 107, 112)

Rows 2 & 3: Knit - end with 2 st left at the end of the 3^rd row

Row 4: ssk (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 92 (97, 102, 107) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog k 96 (101, 106, 110)

Rows 5 & 6: Knit - end with 2 st left at the end of the 3^rd row

Row 7: ssk (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 90 (95, 100, 105) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog k 95 (100, 105, 109)

Continue in this same manner until 152 (162, 177, 182) st remain (-48 st) or until you feel like you’ve done enough waist shaping, but be sure you have a total of at least 7.5” of the piece knit

Knit for 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5) inches leaving markers in place

Increases

Begin side increases as follows (decreasing 4 st every 5 rows 4x):

Row 1: Start at end of the last row that was knit with 1 stitch left unknit – m1L k1 (beginning of row) k1 m1r knit until 1 stitch before the next marker m1L k1 (halfway through row) k1 m1r

Rows 2-5: knit

Repeat rows 1-5 4x

Knit 3 rows (leave markers in place)

Bust Shaping (Short Rows)

Knit until 11 (11, 8, 6) stitches remain before the marker W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 5(5,4,4) stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 5(5,4,4) stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 4 stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

For sizes 36 & 38 ONLY: Complete one more set of short rows – same as the last set.

Pick up wraps as you knit back and knit until 1 st before the marker, W&T

Purl back and pick up wraps. Purl until 1 st before marker. W&T

Go back to knitting in the round while picking up last 2 wraps (wrap that was done on the purl side will be backwards – you’ll need to turn your work around to pick up that wrap normal and then remain knitting on the right side)

Knit for 2 (2, 3, 4) inches (still leaving markers)

Change to CC and knit for 0.5 (0.5, 0.75, 0.75) inches

Choker

Measure your neck where the choker will be sitting. Multiply that number by your ribbing gauge down at the bottom of the shirt and cast on that number rounding to the nearest multiple of 5.

Knit in 3x2 ribbing for 1”

Add buttonhole using the Japanese technique: take a piece of yarn and find a 2 stitches in your fabric where you want your button to be. Place your needle in between those 2 stitches from the back and begin whip stitches making a hole. Make as many whips as you need to get a nice reinforced, yet subtle buttonhole.

Attach strings (I used double strands, but you are free to use a braided, i-cord, etc technique) and beads artistically to your desires! Sew in ends.

Summerfly

2011-06-15T21:30:00.000-07:00

Summertime calls for cute and comfy tops! You can't imagine the endless compliments you'll get with this top, and the satisfaction of saying "I made it!" when someone asks you where you bought it.

Share your version with me and others on Ravelry! http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/summerfly

View this post for a chart of abbreviations: http://illuminknitdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/06/basics_15.html

Materials: Rowan 4 Ply Soft 4(4,5,5) skeins of 389 (MC-brown) 1 skein of 392 (CC-salmon); 191 yds/skein; US 5/3.75mm circular needles – at least 24”

Sizes: XS (S, M, L)

Finished bust measurements: 32 (34, 36, 38)

Gauge: 6.5st/in; 8.5 rows/in

NOTE: CO method used is the ribbed long tail cast on, using 2 different colors, each double stranded. Must roll CC skein into 2 separate balls.

Front

CO 13st (CC) [*k2 p1* k1] 68 (74, 80, 86)st (MC) [*k1 p1*] 13st (CC) [k1 p1 *k2 p1* k2]

Note: be sure to use the method of intarsia to combine the MC with the CC

Rows 1 &2: k the k and p the p

Row 3: Work st as they appear for side panels and knit MC

Knit side panels as they appear and knit st. st MC for 5 (5, 6, 6.5) inches. Knit more rows for longer and less rows for shorter. Piece should currently measure about 2” below waist.

Waist Shaping

Maintain the same pattern for the side panels. Below is the waist shaping directions within the MC (center body panel) only:

Decreases:

Row 1: k18 (20, 22, 24) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k22 (24, 26, 28) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k18 (20, 22, 24)

Knit 9 rows st. st

Row 11: k17 (19, 21, 23) ssk k1 k2tog k20 (22, 24, 26) ssk k1 k2tog k17 (19, 21, 23)

Knit 15 rows st. st

Increases:

Row 27: k18 (20, 22, 24) m1R k1 m1L k22 (24, 26, 28) m1R k1 m1L k18 (20, 22, 24)

Knit 9rows

Row 37: k19 (21, 23, 25) m1R k1 m1L k24 (26, 28, 30) m1R k1 m1L k19 (21, 23, 25)

Knit until piece measures 15 (15, 16, 16.5) inches or until desired length from armpit down

BO 5 st. slip last BO stitch to left needle – ssk. Knit st as they appear until 5 st remain k2tog BO remaining st. carrying brown in back - purl back with brown – end of side panels.

Place stitches on hold

Back

Complete back the exact same as front up until current point.

Shoulder Decreases:

Dec every other row 6x

(RS)Rows 1,3,5,7,9,11: s1 ssk knit until 3 st remain k2tog k1 (-12)

(WS)Rows 2,4,6,8,10,12: s1 purl back

Dec on every 4^th row 3x (RS)

(RS)Rows 13,17,21: s1 ssk knit until 3 st remain k2tog k1 (-6)

(WS)Rows 14,16,18,20,22: s1 purl back

(RS)Rows 15,19: s1 knit across

Knit in st. st for 4”

Place all stitches on hold

Front Scoop

Rethread needles

Size XS(S) – Increase every other row 22x as follows:

*(RS) s1 m1L knit across until 1 st remains m1R k1

(WS) s1 purl back*

Size M – Increase every other row 20x in the same manner as above, and increase every row 2x as follows:

*(RS) s1 m1L knit across until 1st remains m1R k1

(WS) s1 pick up bar front to back p1 tbl purl across until 1^st remains pick up bar back to front with left needle p1*

Size L – Increase every other row 20x and every row 4x in the same manner as above.

Knit 6 rows st st

Join Front and Back:

Pick up stitches from back so that all of your live stitches are on one needle.

Knit in round for 1.5”

Knit 5 rows twisted (knit all stitches through back loop)

BO loosely!

Sew in ends and block.

The Basics

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Before we get started, here is a chart of the very basic abbreviations and techniques that I typically use. Any patterns that I use other techniques with, I will specify at the top. This is a good chart to copy over to Microsoft Word and either save or print out. For instruction on how to do some these, visit Youtube or Knittinghelp.com - both provide great tutorials!

Basic Knitting Abbreviations & Techniques

k	knit
p	purl
CO	cast on
BO	bind off
RS	Right side
WS	Wrong side
St st.	Stockinette stitch
st(s)	Stitch(es)
tbl	Knit through back loop
s1	Slip one stitch (kw will mean knit wise and pw will mean purlwise)
dec	decrease
k2tog	Knit 2 stitches together
ssk	Slip 2 stitches knitwise, knit them together
p2tog (right leaning)	Purl 2 stitches together
p2tog (left leaning)	Purl 2 stitches together through back loops
inc	increase
m1L	Make one left; lift bar between sts front to back and knit tbl
m1R	Make one right; lift bar between sts back to front and knit
yo	Yarn over
WT	Wrap & turn (short rows)
pu	Pick up wraps
PM	Place marker
MC	Main color
CC	Coordinating color
CN	Cable needle
* *	Repeat instructions between asterisks

1, 2, 3... Get to Know Me

2011-06-15T16:33:00.000-07:00

Once upon a time there was a young girl who was so lost in the world. Never having anything consistent in her life, she desired a hobby she could dedicate herself to. While working at the age of 17 in a sock store, she decided she wanted to learn how to knit socks. So she did and she knit and knit and knit until she realized that this is what she had desired for her whole life. Something she loved, was good at and could share with other people.

Starting off selling baby socks in the sock store, she grew into teaching herself how to make hats, gloves and clothing, picking up helpful techniques every step of the way. Stitch by stitch, she's created hundreds of gifts for people and in the process has enjoyed making her own designs.

I'm here to share the simple and enjoyable patterns I have created. All my patterns are original and eager to be knit and loved by others. Please feel free to share my patterns and alert me if there are errors. I hope to put together a book of fresh patterns in the future for all who enjoy my work, and I need your help of sharing your critiques and comments.

~Happy Knitting!~

**All rights reserved by Alisha Bright. None of my work may be duplicated for profit, in written or finished form.