The Knitting Bohemian

This top is one of my most favorite that I have designed. I first began knitting shirts by simply thinking up something I wanted to make and tried making it. With no real knowledge of shaping or measurements and a few first failed attempts, this was my second success at creating exactly what I had pictured. There are definitely changes that I would make, so please feel free and edit this pattern to your desires. By all means, this is not a professional written or designed pattern, but I have had so many people asking for it, I decided to share it. Any feedback on how to make it better would be great!

Share your version with me and others on Ravelry! http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/the-knitting-bohemian

Please view this page for a list of abbreviations and techniques: http://illuminknitdesigns.blogspot.com/2011/06/basics_15.html

Materials:

· Yarn: Hempton (40% Cotton 30% Hemp 30% Modal); 3 (3, 4, 4) skeins Beige (069) (MC); 2 skeins Olive Green (066) (CC)

· Needles: size US 5 circular 40” and US 2 circular 40”

· 8 beads of your choice or more if you want!

· 1 button of your choice

Gauge: Size US 5: 5st/in 9 rows/in; Size US 2: 5.5st/in 9.5 rows/in

Size:   XS (S, M, L)

Bust: 32 (34, 36, 38)

Note: This pattern is done in the round working on the magic loop (circular needles) and is knit bottom up.

 

Bottom Ribbing

CO 200 (210, 220, 230) stitches with size 5 needles with CC making sure to place a marker at the beginning of the row and exactly halfway through the row

Knit in a 3x2 ribbing for 1.75 (1.75 ,2, 2.25) inches

Switch to MC & size 2 needles. Knit gradient as follows (continuing 3x2 ribbing):

MC – knit 1 row; CC – Knit 3 rows; MC – knit 2 rows; CC – knit 2 rows; MC – knit 3 rows; CC – knit 1 row; MC – knit 4 rows

Knit 1 row with MC

Decreases (if you need less waist shaping, replace some decrease rows with regular knit rows)

Begin side dec. as follows (decreasing 4 st every 3 rows 12x):

Row 1: Start at the end of the last row that was knit with 2 stitches left unknit - ssk  (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 94 (99, 104, 109) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog knit 97 (102, 107, 112)

Rows 2 & 3: Knit - end with 2 st left at the end of the 3^rd row

Row 4: ssk (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 92 (97, 102, 107) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog k 96 (101, 106, 110)

Rows 5 & 6: Knit - end with 2 st left at the end of the 3^rd row

Row 7: ssk (beginning of row) k1 k2tog knit 90 (95, 100, 105) st. ssk k1 (halfway through row) k2tog k 95 (100, 105, 109)

Continue in this same manner until 152 (162, 177, 182) st remain (-48 st) or until you feel like you’ve done enough waist shaping, but be sure you have a total of at least 7.5” of the piece knit

Knit for 5 (5, 5.5, 5.5) inches leaving markers in place

Increases

Begin side increases as follows (decreasing 4 st every 5 rows 4x):

Row 1: Start at end of the last row that was knit with 1 stitch left unknit – m1L k1 (beginning of row) k1 m1r knit until 1 stitch before the next marker m1L k1 (halfway through row) k1 m1r

Rows 2-5: knit

Repeat rows 1-5 4x

Knit 3 rows (leave markers in place)

Bust Shaping (Short Rows)

Knit until 11 (11, 8, 6) stitches remain before the marker W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 5(5,4,4) stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 5(5,4,4) stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

Knit until 4 stitches before the previously wrapped stitch, W&T

Repeat on wrong side (purl side)

For sizes 36 & 38 ONLY: Complete one more set of short rows – same as the last set.

Pick up wraps as you knit back and knit until 1 st before the marker, W&T

Purl back and pick up wraps. Purl until 1 st before marker. W&T

Go back to knitting in the round while picking up last 2 wraps (wrap that was done on the purl side will be backwards – you’ll need to turn your work around to pick up that wrap normal and then remain knitting on the right side)

Knit for 2 (2, 3, 4) inches (still leaving markers)

Change to CC and knit for 0.5 (0.5, 0.75, 0.75) inches

BO

Choker

Measure your neck where the choker will be sitting. Multiply that number by your ribbing gauge down at the bottom of the shirt and cast on that number rounding to the nearest multiple of 5.

Knit in 3x2 ribbing for 1”

Add buttonhole using the Japanese technique: take a piece of yarn and find a 2 stitches in your fabric where you want your button to be. Place your needle in between those 2 stitches from the back and begin whip stitches making a hole. Make as many whips as you need to get a nice reinforced, yet subtle buttonhole.  

BO

Attach strings (I used double strands, but you are free to use a braided, i-cord, etc technique) and beads artistically to your desires! Sew in ends.

Summerfly

Summertime calls for cute and comfy tops! You can't imagine the endless compliments you'll get with this top, and the satisfaction of saying "I made it!" when someone asks you where you bought it.

Share your version with me and others on Ravelry!

Materials: Rowan 4 Ply Soft 4(4,5,5) skeins of 389 (MC-brown) 1 skein of 392 (CC-salmon); 191 yds/skein; or any DK weight yarn
US 5/3.75mm circular needles – at least 24” or size needed to obtain gauge

Sizes: XS (S, M, L)

Finished bust measurements: 32 (34, 36, 38)

Gauge: 6.5st/in; 8.5 rows/in

Abbreviations and Techniques

NOTE: CO method used is the ribbed long tail cast on, using 2 different colors, each double stranded (only use 2 strands for CO, the rest is knit single stranded). Must roll CC skein into 2 separate balls.

Front

CO 13st (CC) [*k2, p1,* k1]    (MC) 68 (74, 80, 86)st  [*k1, p1*]    13st (CC) [k1, p1, *k2, p1,* k2]

Note: be sure to use the method of intarsia to combine the MC with the CC

Knit the side panel sts as they appear (knit the knits and purl the purls) and knit in stockinette stitch in MC for 5 (5, 6, 6.5) inches. Knit more rows for a longer shirt and less rows for shorter.  Piece should currently measure about 2” below waist.

Waist Shaping

Maintain the same pattern for the side panels. Below is the waist shaping directions within the MC (center body panel) only:

Decreases:

Row 1: k18 (20, 22, 24), ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k22 (24, 26, 28), ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k18 (20, 22, 24)

Knit 9 rows st. st

Row 11: k17 (19, 21, 23), ssk, k1, k2tog, k20 (22, 24, 26), ssk, k1, k2tog, k17 (19, 21, 23)

Knit 15 rows st. st

Increases:

Row 27: k18 (20, 22, 24), m1R, k1, m1L, k22 (24, 26, 28), m1R, k1, m1L, k18 (20, 22, 24)

Knit 9rows

Row 37: k19 (21, 23, 25), m1R, k1, m1L, k24 (26, 28, 30), m1R, k1, m1L, k19 (21, 23, 25)

Knit until piece measures 15 (15, 16, 16.5) inches or until desired length from armpit down

BO 5 st. slip last BO stitch to left needle – ssk. Knit st as they appear until 5 st remain k2tog BO remaining st. carrying brown in back - purl back with brown – end of side panels.

Place stitches on hold

Back

Complete back the exact same as front up until current point.

Shoulder Decreases:

Dec every other row 6x

(RS)Rows 1,3,5,7,9,11: s1, ssk, knit until 3 st remain, k2tog, k1 (-12)

(WS)Rows 2,4,6,8,10,12: s1, purl back

Dec on every 4^th row 3x (RS)

(RS)Rows 13,17,21: s1, ssk, knit until 3 st remain, k2tog, k1 (-6)

(WS)Rows 14,16,18,20,22: s1, purl back

(RS)Rows 15,19: s1, knit across

Knit in st. st for 4”

Place all stitches on hold

Front Scoop

Rethread needles

Size XS(S) – Increase every other row 22x as follows:

*(RS) s1, m1L, knit across until 1 st remains, m1R, k1

  (WS) s1, purl back*

Size M – Increase every other row 20x in the same manner as above, and increase every row 2x as follows:

             *(RS) s1, m1L, knit across until 1st remains, m1R, k1

               (WS) s1, pick up bar front to back p1 tbl, purl across until 1^st remains, pick up bar back to front with left needle, p1*

Size L – Increase every other row 20x and every row 4x in the same manner as above.

             

Knit 6 rows st st

Join Front and Back:

Pick up stitches from back so that all of your live stitches are on one needle.

Knit in round for 1.5”

Knit 5 rows twisted (knit all stitches through back loop)

BO loosely!

Sew in ends and block.

The Basics

Before we get started, here is a chart of the very basic abbreviations and techniques that I typically use. Any patterns that I use other techniques with, I will specify at the top. This is a good chart to copy over to Microsoft Word and either save or print out.  For instruction on how to do some these, visit Youtube or Knittinghelp.com - both provide great tutorials!

                                   Basic Knitting Abbreviations & Techniques

k	knit
p	purl
CO	cast on
BO	bind off
RS	Right side
WS	Wrong side
St st.	Stockinette stitch
st(s)	Stitch(es)
tbl	Knit through back loop
s1	Slip one stitch (kw will mean knit wise and pw will mean purlwise)
dec	decrease
k2tog	Knit 2 stitches together
ssk	Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time, knit them together
p2tog (right leaning)	Purl 2 stitches together
p2tog (left leaning)	Purl 2 stitches together through back loops
inc	increase
m1L	Make one left; lift bar between sts front to back and knit tbl
m1R	Make one right; lift bar between sts back to front and knit
yo	Yarn over
WT	Wrap & turn (short rows)
pu	Pick up wraps
PM	Place marker
MC	Main color
CC	Coordinating color
CN	Cable needle
*              *	Repeat instructions between asterisks

1, 2, 3... Get to Know Me

Once upon a time there was a young girl who was so lost in the world. Never having anything consistent in her life, she desired a hobby she could dedicate herself to.  While working at the age of 17 in a sock store, she decided she wanted to learn how to knit socks. So she did and she knit and knit and knit until she realized that this is what she had desired for her whole life. Something she loved, was good at and could share with other people.

Starting off selling baby socks in the sock store, she grew into teaching herself how to make hats, gloves and  clothing, picking up helpful techniques every step of the way. Stitch by stitch, she's created hundreds of gifts for people and in the process has enjoyed making her own designs.

I'm here to share the simple and enjoyable patterns I have created. All my patterns are original and eager to be knit and loved by others. Please feel free to share my patterns and alert me if there are errors.  I hope to put together a book of fresh patterns in the future for all who enjoy my work, and I need your help of sharing your critiques and comments.

~Happy Knitting!~

**All rights reserved by Alisha Bright. None of my work may be duplicated for profit, in written or finished form.