UPDATED!
Originally inspired by Buttony Sweater by Katie Marcus, the design of Winter's Pine and Winter's Oak (combined to create "Winter's Tree") is a modern, yet simple sweater. The off center buttons and asymmetrical collar give it an edgy look, but with the form fit design element, it makes it classy and elegant. I first used a variegated yarn by Malabrigo (Winter's Pine version) of which was so yummy to knit with! My only issue was that it pills like crazy, and that drives me mad. So the second time around (Winter's Oak) I used Rowan Alpaca Cotton. This sweater can be knit with one color, two or even more! The pattern below is that of Winter's Oak, but it can easily be altered to fit your own vision. Enjoy! (Special techniques used are at the bottom. Please visit "
The Basics" on my blog if you need help on the basic abbreviations/techniques.)
Materials:
· 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) skeins Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Brazil 403); 1
skein Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Rice 400); 148 yds per skein
· Circular US size
8 & 10 32” +
· Stitch markers
Sizes:
· Bust: 34 (36,
38, 40, 42)
· Finished
Bust: 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) – allows for a nice fit with shirts underneath +1.5
-2” for buttons
· Finished
Length: 23.5” (24, 25, 25.5, 26)
Gauge:
4.75st/in;
6rows/in
CO 175 (185, 195,
205, 215) with MC using 2x1 ribbed long tail cast on method
Rows 1-3,
& 6: 2x1 rib in MC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2) (each size isn’t perfectly divisible by 3, so you’ll have an extra
stitch or two at the end of the row depended on the size.)
Rows 4, 5, 7, &
8: 2x1 rib in CC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)
Continue with MC
until total ribbed edge is 3 (3, 4, 4.5, 5) inches
Begin
decreases (side shaping) as follows (dec. 4st every 5 rows 7x):
1) s1 k36 (38, 41, 44, 47) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k75
(81, 85, 89, 93) ssk PM k1 PM k2tog k49 (51, 54, 57, 60) p1 k3
2) s1 p2 k1 p48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p73
(79, 83, 87, 91) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p36 (38, 41, 44, 47)
3) s1 k34 (36, 39, 42, 45) ssk k1 k2tog k71 (77, 81, 85,
89) ssk k1 k2tog k47 (49, 52, 55, 58) p1 k3
4) s1 p2 k1 p46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p69
(75, 79, 83, 87) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p34 (36, 39, 42, 45)
5) s1 k32 (34, 37, 40, 43) ssk k1 k2tog k67 (73, 77, 81,
85) ssk k1 k2tog k45 (47, 50, 53, 56) p1 k3
6) s1 p2 k1 p44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p65
(71, 75, 79, 83) p2tog p1 p2tog tbl p32 (34, 37, 40, 43)
7) s1 k30 (32, 35, 38, 41) ssk k1 k2tog k63 (69, 73, 77,
81) ssk k1 k2tog k43 (45, 48, 51, 54) p1 k3
Knit in st.
st. for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75) inches ending on a WS row
Begin
increases as follows (inc. 4st every 5 rows 6x):
1) s1 k31 (33, 36, 39, 42) m1r k1 m1L k65 (71, 75, 79,
83) m1r k1 k1L k44 (46, 49, 52, 55) p1 k3
2) s1 p2 k1 p45 (47, 50, 53, 56) m1rP p1 m1LP p67 (73,
77, 81, 85) m1rP p1 m1LP p33 (35, 38, 41, 44)
3) s1 k33 (35, 38, 41, 44) m1r k1 m1L k69 (75, 79, 83,
87) m1r k1 m1L k46 (48, 51, 54, 57) p1 k3
4) s1 p2 k1 p47 (49, 52, 55, 58) m1rP p1 m1LP p71 (77,
81, 85, 89) m1rP p1 m1LP p35 (37, 40, 43, 46)
5) s1 k35 (37, 40, 43, 46) m1r k1 m1L k73 (79, 83,
87, 91) m1r k1 m1L k48 (50, 53, 56, 59) p1 k3
6) s1 p2 k1 p49 (51, 54, 57, 60) m1rP p1 m1LP p75 (81,
85, 89, 93) m1rP p1 m1Lp p37 (39, 42, 45, 48)
You should
have 4 less stitches than you CO with – 171 (181, 191, 201, 211)
Knit until
total piece measures 18 (18.5, 19.5, 20, 20.5) inches and place all
stitches on hold using waste yarn
Sleeves (knit in the round):
Using a
provisional CO, cast on 36 (36, 39, 42, 42) stitches with a size US 10 needle (CO
more stitches for a loser fit)
Knit in a 2x1
rib for 3”; switch to a size US 8 needle and continue for another 1.5” ending
3sts before beginning of next row
Dec. 4 sts for
transition:
*ssk k1 k2tog* continue ribbing pattern until
3 sts before the halfway point of the row and repeat from * to * continue ribbing
pattern until EOR
Knit in st. st
for 1”
Inc. 2st every
13th row 5x (on the inside of arm, wherever you choose that to be)
making sure there are 2 st in between your increases
Inc. 2st every
7th row 3x
Repeat this
for other sleeve and place all stitches on hold
Attaching
sleeves to body:
Note: Remove
markers as you come to them
Rethread
needles (RS facing you rethread to the left – front right side of piece)
picking up stitches until you reach 6st before your first marker (front right)
– place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (that
will remain on hold) from sleeve and continue to pick up the body stitches
(back side) until you reach 6st before first marker on backside (back left) –
place the next 12st on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12st (will remain on
hold) from sleeve and pick up the remaining stitches on body (front left)
Knit 1 row and
purl back
219 (229, 245,
261, 271) sts should be on the needle.
Shoulder
Shaping:
1) s1 k21 (23, 26, 29, 32) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog
k29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k52 (55, 59, 63, 68) ssk PM k2
PM k2tog k29 (30, 32, 33, 34) ssk PM k2 PM k2tog k35 (38, 43, 46, 50) p1 k3
2) s1 k20 (22, 25, 28, 31) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31,
32) ssk k2 k2tog k50 (53, 57, 61, 66) ssk k2 k2tog k27 (28, 30, 31, 32) ssk
k2 k2tog k34 (37, 42, 45, 49) p1 k3
Short row sleeve shaping:
s1 knit until 2st before markers
on the back right (2nd set of markers) WT; purl until 2st before
marker (1st set) WT; *knit until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT;
purl until 3st before last wrapped stitch WT* Repeat once *to*
knit across picking up wraps as
you go (there will be 3) until you reached the last stitch on knit side before
marker WT; purl across picking up wraps (3) until last stitch before maker WT;
knit back across picking up the last wrapped knit stitch and continue across
until you reach the other sleeve and repeat the same thing.
After repeating on the other sleeve and have knit all the way until the
end of the row, purl back picking up the 2 remaining wraps on the purl side (1
per sleeve)
Resume with should decreases (using the same technique as before) until
front right has a total (from 1st stitch until 1st
marker) of 18 (20, 23, 26, 30)– this will be a total of 6 decrease rows (12
total with purled rows)
Back Shaping:
Knit (continue the dec for the shoulder) until
4st before back left marker WT; purl until 3st before back right marker WT;
*knit until 2st before last wrapped st WT; purl until 2st before last wrapped
st WT* Repeat once *to*
Knit across
picking up wraps (3) until 2nd
to last st before back left marker WT; purl picking up wraps (3) until 2nd
to last stitch before marker WT; knit across picking in the last knit wrapped
stitch and knit all the way across (don’t forget to continue those shoulder
decreases!) Purl back picking up last wrapped stitch
Continue shoulder dec for another 1.25” –
total of 10 decrease rows (20 total with purled rows)
Knit st st for 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) rows and
begin 2x1 ribbing – 3”, Your size may not end up with a divisible by 3 number
for the collar, that’s okay, just knit the extra stitch or two at the end of
the row
Alternate ribbing for fold over collar – 2x1
on WS (which will technically be right side when folded)
BO the 12st
per sleeve under the arms using a three needle BO.
Add button
holes to your liking using the Japanese technique - whipstitch a hole wherever
you want your buttons – or use any technique you like!
Sew up the
holes at the underarms and sew in all your ends!
Special Abbreviations
& Techniques:
m1L = make one left; pick up line between two
stitches by inserting left needle into front and knit the stitch through the
back loop
m1r = make one right; pick up line between
two stitches by inserting left needle into back and knitting the stitch normal
m1LP = make one left purl side; pick up line
between two stitches by inserting left needle into back and purling the stitch
normal
m1rP = make one right purl side; pick up line
between two stitches by inserting left needle into front and purling the stitch
through the back loop
WT = wrap and turn work; if on knit side
bring yarn to front, slip stitch knit-wise bring yarn to back slip purl-wise,
turn work – if on purl side bring yarn to back slip stitch purl-wise bring yarn
to front slip stitch purl-wise and turn work
Picking up wraps = Knit side – lift wrap from
under and place on needle behind the stitch that it was wrapped and knit them
together through the back loops; Purl side – lift wrap from the RS of work and
place on needle untwisted and p2tog
Copyright 2011, Alisha Bright. All Rights Reserved.