Originally inspired by Buttony Sweater by Katie Marcus, the design of Winter's Pine and Winter's Oak (combined to create "Winter's Tree") is a modern, yet simple sweater. The off center buttons and asymmetrical collar give it an edgy look, but with the form fit design element, it makes it classy and elegant. I first used a variegated yarn by Malabrigo (Winter's Pine version) of which was so yummy to knit with! My only issue was that it pills like crazy, and that drives me mad. So the second time around (Winter's Oak) I used Rowan Alpaca Cotton. This sweater can be knit with one color, two or even more! The pattern below is that of Winter's Oak, but it can easily be altered to fit your own vision. Enjoy!
Materials:
· 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Brazil
403); 1 skein Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Rice 400); 148 yds per skein (this is the
yarn used for the sweater in brown and white) OR 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) Malabrigo Worsted; 210 yds per skein (this yarn
is the yarn used for the sweater in variegated dark greens)
· Size US8
Circular 32”+
· Size US10 Circular 16” or US10 DPNs (whichever
you’re more comfortable with)
· Stitch markers
Sizes:
· Bust: 34 (36,
38, 40, 42)
· Finished
Bust: 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) – allows for a nice fit with shirts underneath +1.5
-2” for buttons
· Finished
Length: 23.5” (24, 25, 25.5, 26)
Gauge:
4.75stitches
per inch
6rows per inch
Abbreviations
& Techniques:
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
PM = place marker
s1 = slip
one; insert needle into stitch as if to purl and slip to right needle, yarn in
front
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
ssk = slip slip knit; slip first stitch knit-wise,
second stitch knit-wise and insert left needle into front of 2 slipped stitches,
knit 2 together
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
p2tog tbl = purl 2 together through back
loop; coming from the back of the work, purl stitches together (a very
difficult technique to describe by words – if you’re able to watch a video, or
refer to a photo, it’ll save your life!)
m1L = make one left; pick up line between two
stitches by inserting left needle front to back and knit the stitch through the
back loop
m1LP = make one left purl side; pick up line
between two stitches by inserting left needle back to front and purl the stitch
normal
m1rP = make one right purl side; pick up line
between two stitches by inserting left needle front to back and purl the stitch
through the back loop
m1r = make one right; pick up line between
two stitches by inserting left needle back to front and knit the stitch normal
WT = wrap and turn work; if on knit side
bring yarn to front, slip stitch knit-wise bring yarn to back slip purl-wise,
turn work – if on purl side bring yarn to back slip stitch purl-wise bring yarn
to front slip stitch purl-wise and turn work
Picking up wraps = Knit side – lift wrap from
under and place on needle behind the stitch that it was wrapped and knit them
together through the back loops; Purl side – lift wrap from the RS of work and
place on needle untwisted and p2tog
CO
175 (185, 195, 205, 215) with MC using 2x1 ribbed long tail cast on
method and size 8 needle
Rows
1-3, & 6: Complete a 2x1 rib (k2, p1) in MC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)
(each size isn’t perfectly divisible by 3, so
you’ll have an extra stitch or two at the end of the row depended on the size.)
Rows
4, 5, 7, & 8: Complete a 2x1 rib in CC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)
Continue
ribbing as noted about with MC only until total ribbed edge is approximately 3
(3, 4, 4.5, 5) inches or until desired length.
Begin
decreases (side shaping) as follows (dec. 4st every 5 rows 7x):
Row
1: s1 k36 (38, 41, 44, 47), ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k75 (81, 85, 89, 93),
ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k49 (51, 54, 57, 60), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
2 & 4: s1, purl to end of row (EOR)
Rows
3 & 5: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
6: s1, p51 (53, 56, 59, 62), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl (<-- this may be confusing
you, refer to abbreviations page!), p73 (79, 83, 87, 91), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl,
p36 (38, 41, 44, 47)
Rows 7 & 9: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1,
p1, k1
Rows 8 & 10: s1, purl to EOR
Row
11: s1, k34 (36, 39, 42, 45), ssk, k1, k2tog, k71 (77, 81, 85, 89), ssk,
k1, k2tog, k47 (49, 52, 55, 58), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
12 & 14: s1, purl to EOR
Rows
13 & 15: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
16: s1, p49 (51, 54, 57, 60), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p69 (75, 79, 83, 87), p2tog,
p1, p2tog tbl, p34 (36, 39, 42, 45)
Rows
17 & 19: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
18 & 20: s1, purl to EOR
Row
21: s1, k32 (34, 37, 40, 43), ssk, k1, k2tog, k67 (73, 77, 81, 85), ssk, k1,
k2tog, k45 (47, 50, 53, 56), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
22 & 24: s1, purl to EOR
Rows
23 & 25: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
26: s1, p47 (49, 52, 55, 58), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p65 (71, 75, 79, 83), p2tog,
p1, p2tog tbl, p32 (34, 37, 40, 43)
Rows
27 & 29: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
28 & 30: s1, purl to EOR
Row
31: s1, k30 (32, 35, 38, 41), ssk, k1, k2tog, k63 (69, 73, 77, 81), ssk, k1,
k2tog, k43 (45, 48, 51, 54), p1, k1, p1, k1
Knit
in stockinette st. for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75) inches being sure to continue
edging pattern on the RS rows only (knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1).
End with a WS row. You can hold the sweater around you to test fit. You should
be just above waist (smallest part of torso). Make alterations as needed – knit
more or less as everyone’s body is different!
Begin
increases as follows (inc. 4st every 5 rows 6x):
Row
1: s1, k31 (33, 36, 39, 42), m1r, k1, m1L, k65 (71, 75, 79, 83), m1r, k1, k1L,
k44 (46, 49, 52, 55), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
2 & 4: s1, purl to EOR
Rows
3 & 5: s1, knit until 4 sts remain,
p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
6: s1, p48 (50, 53, 56, 59), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p67 (73, 77, 81, 85), m1rP, p1,
m1LP, p33 (35, 38, 41, 44)
Rows
7 & 9: s1, knit until 4 sts remain,
p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
8 & 10: s1, purl to EOR
Row
11: s1, k33 (35, 38, 41, 44), m1r, k1, m1L, k69 (75, 79, 83, 87), m1r, k1, m1L,
k46 (48, 51, 54, 57), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
12 & 14: s1, purl to EOR
Rows
13 & 15: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
16: s1, p50 (52, 55, 58, 61), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p71 (77, 81, 85, 89), m1rP,
p1, m1LP, p35 (37, 40, 43, 46)
Rows
17 & 19: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
18 & 20: s1, purl to EOR
Row
21: s1, k35 (37, 40, 43, 46), m1r, k1, m1L, k73 (79, 83, 87, 91), m1r,
k1, m1L, k48 (50, 53, 56, 59), p1, k1, p1, k1
Rows
22 & 24: s1, purl to EOR
Rows
23 & 25: s1, knit until 4 sts
remain, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
26: s1, p52 (54, 57, 60, 63), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p75 (81, 85, 89, 93), m1rP,
p1, m1Lp, p37 (39, 42, 45, 48)
You
should have 4 less stitches than you CO with – 171 (181, 191, 201, 211)
Knit
until total piece measures 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) inches and place all
stitches on hold using waste yarn. This is a good time to wrap the sweater
around you to see if you need to knit more or less. Sweater should reach right
up to under arm.
Sleeves
(knit in the round):
Using
a provisional CO, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) stitches with a size US 10 needle
(CO more stitches for a looser fit). Place a marker at the beginning of your
round.
Knit
in a 2x1 rib for 3”; switch to a size US 8 needle and continue for another 1.5”
Transition
round from cuff to rest of sleeve: ssk, k1, k2tog, k13 (14, 15, 16, 17), ssk,
k1, k2tog, knit to EOR
Knit
in stockinette stitch for 1”
Increase
2sts every 9th row 5x as follows:
Round
1: k1, m1L, knit until 1 stitch before end of round, m1R k1
Rounds
2-9: knit
Repeat
rounds 1 through 9 four more times.
Increase
2sts every 7th row in the same manner as above for a total of 5
times.
You
should have 52 (54, 56, 58, 60) sts
Knit
in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5)” – try
on to make sure it reaches right to the crease of the armpit. It shouldn’t come
up over the shoulder yet.
Place
stitches on hold and cut yarn leaving an 8” tail.
Repeat
this for the other sleeve and place these stitches on hold as well.
Note:
As this was one of my first patterns – the first attempt (the dark green) was
done with the drop shoulder technique. The second (brown and white) was done
using the raglan sleeve technique. I’ve
found the raglan to produce a more satisfying fit, so I’ve written the pattern
accordingly.
Attaching
sleeves to body:
Note:
Remove any markers as you come to them.
Begin
to re-thread your needles through the body piece (RS facing you rethread from
right to left) until you reach 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts before your first marker (this
will make your front right) – place the next 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts on hold
from body piece. Pick up all but the inside 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts from
one sleeve (that will remain on hold – your increases should mark the center of
these sts), and continue to pick up the body stitches (back side) until you
reach 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts before first marker on backside (back left) – place
the next 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12 (12,
12, 14, 14) sts (will remain on hold) from sleeve and pick up the remaining
stitches on body (front left).
Join
in new yarn.
Knit 1 row, slipping the 1st stitch
Purl
1 row, slipping the 1st stitch
227
(241, 255, 261, 275) sts should be on the needle.
Shoulder
Shaping (raglan):
Row
1 (RS): s1, k24 (27, 30, 32, 35), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k34 (36, 37, 37,
39), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k66 (70, 75, 77, 81), ssk, PM, k2, PM,
k2tog, k34 (36, 37, 37, 39), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k40 (43, 47, 49, 52),
p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
2: s1, purl to EOR
Row
3: s1, k23 (26, 29, 31, 34), ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 35, 35, 37), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k64 (68, 73, 75, 79), ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 35, 35, 37),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k39 (42, 46, 48, 51), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
4: s1, purl to EOR
Row
5: s1 k22 (25, 28, 30, 33) ssk, k2, k2tog, k30 (32, 33, 33, 35), ssk, k2,
k2tog, k62 (66, 71, 73, 77), ssk, k2, k2tog, k30 (32, 33, 33, 35), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k38 (41, 45, 47, 50), p1 k1, p1, k1
Row
6: s1, purl to EOR
Row
7: s1, k21 (24, 27, 29, 32), ssk, k2, k2tog, k28 (30, 31, 31, 33), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k60 (64, 69, 71, 75), ssk, k2, k2tog, k28 (30, 31, 31, 33),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k37 (40, 44, 46, 49), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
8: s1, purl to EOR
Row
9: s1, k20 (23, 26, 28, 31), ssk, k2, k2tog, k26 (28, 29, 29, 31), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k58 (62, 67, 69, 73), ssk, k2, k2tog, k26 (28, 29, 29, 31),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k36 (39, 43, 45, 48), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
10: s1, purl to EOR
Row
11: s1, k19 (22, 25, 27, 30), ssk, k2, k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 27, 29), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k56 (60, 65, 67, 71), ssk, k2, k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 27, 29),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k35 (38, 42, 44, 47), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
12: s1, purl to EOR
Row
13: s1, k18 (21, 24, 26, 29), ssk, k2, k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 25, 27), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k54 (58, 63, 65, 69), ssk, k2, k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 25, 27),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k34 (37, 41, 43, 46), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
14: s1, purl to EOR
Row
15: s1, k17 (20, 23, 25, 28), ssk, k2, k2tog, k20 (22, 23, 23, 25), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k52 (56, 61, 63, 67), ssk, k2, k2tog, k20 (22, 23, 23, 25),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k33 (36, 40, 42, 45), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
16: s1, purl to EOR
Row
17: s1, k16 (19, 22, 24, 27), ssk, k2, k2tog, k18 (20, 21, 21, 23), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k50 (54, 59, 61, 65), ssk, k2, k2tog, k18 (20, 21, 21, 23),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 38, 40, 44), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
18: s1, purl to EOR
Row
19: s1, k15 (18, 21, 23, 26), ssk, k2, k2tog, k16 (18, 19, 19, 21), ssk,
k2, k2tog, k48 (52, 57, 59, 63), ssk, k2, k2tog, k16 (18, 19, 19, 21),
ssk, k2, k2tog, k31 (33, 37, 39, 43), p1, k1, p1, k1
Row
20: s1, purl to EOR
You
should now have 80 less stitches.
Back
Shaping:
Knit until 4st before back left marker WT
purl
until 3st before back right marker WT
*knit
until 2st before last wrapped st WT
purl
until 2st before last wrapped st WT*
Repeat
last two rows
Knit
across picking up wraps (3) until 2nd
to last st before back left marker WT
purl picking up wraps (3) until 2nd
to last stitch before marker WT
knit across picking in the last knit wrapped
stitch and knit all the way across
Purl
back picking up last wrapped stitch
Knit in stockinette stitch for 2 (2, 4, 4, 4)
rows
Collar:
Complete
2x1 ribbing for 3” ending with a RS row (ready to knit a WS row).
RS
row: *k2, p1* to EOR (Note: Your size may not end up with a divisible by 3
number for the collar, that’s okay, just knit the extra stitch or two at the
end of the row.)
WS
row:
If
you ended your RS row with a k1, then you will do p1, *k1, p2* to EOR.
If
you ended your RS row with a knit 2, then you will do p2, *k1, p2* to EOR
If
you ended your RS row with a p1, then you will do *k1, p2* to EOR
We
are now going to be doing a 2x1 ribbing on the WS (which will become the right
side when folded). Do exactly what you did above, but reverse.
BO
the 12st from sleeve and under the arms using a three needle BO from the inside
of your garment.
Add
button holes to your liking using the Japanese technique - whipstitch a hole
wherever you want your buttons – or use any technique you like!
Sew
up the holes at the underarms and sew in all your ends!
Wet block and lay flat to dry for a day or two.
Copyright 2011, Alisha Bright. All Rights Reserved.
