Winter's Tree

UPDATE: This pattern has been updated as of 9.15.2014. Due to several complaints of ambiguity, I have tried to improve the pattern. Please let me know if it needs any additional changes.

Originally inspired by Buttony Sweater by Katie Marcus, the design of Winter's Pine and Winter's Oak (combined to create "Winter's Tree") is a modern, yet simple sweater. The off center buttons and asymmetrical collar give it an edgy look, but with the form fit design element, it makes it classy and elegant. I first used a variegated yarn by Malabrigo (Winter's Pine version) of which was so yummy to knit with! My only issue was that it pills like crazy, and that drives me mad. So the second time around (Winter's Oak) I used Rowan Alpaca Cotton.  This sweater can be knit with one color, two or even more! The pattern below is that of Winter's Oak,  but it can easily be altered to fit your own vision. Enjoy!

 

 

Materials:

·  6 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Brazil 403); 1 skein Rowan Alpaca Cotton (Rice 400); 148 yds per skein (this is the yarn used for the sweater in brown and white) OR 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) Malabrigo Worsted; 210 yds per skein (this yarn is the yarn used for the sweater in variegated dark greens)

·   Size US8 Circular 32”+

·  Size US10 Circular 16” or US10 DPNs (whichever you’re more comfortable with)

·  Stitch markers

Sizes: 

·   Bust: 34 (36, 38, 40, 42)

·   Finished Bust: 37 (39, 41, 43, 45) – allows for a nice fit with shirts underneath +1.5 -2” for buttons

·   Finished Length: 23.5” (24, 25, 25.5, 26)

Gauge:

4.75stitches per inch

 6rows per inch 

Abbreviations & Techniques:

  RS = right side

  WS = wrong side

  PM = place marker

   s1 = slip one; insert needle into stitch as if to purl and slip to right needle, yarn in front

  k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

  ssk = slip slip knit; slip first stitch knit-wise, second stitch knit-wise and insert left needle into front of 2 slipped stitches, knit 2 together

  p2tog = purl 2 stitches together

  p2tog tbl = purl 2 together through back loop; coming from the back of the work, purl stitches together (a very difficult technique to describe by words – if you’re able to watch a video, or refer to a photo, it’ll save your life!)

  m1L = make one left; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle front to back and knit the stitch through the back loop

  m1LP = make one left purl side; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle back to front and purl the stitch normal

  m1rP = make one right purl side; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle front to back and purl the stitch through the back loop

  m1r = make one right; pick up line between two stitches by inserting left needle back to front and knit the stitch normal

  WT = wrap and turn work; if on knit side bring yarn to front, slip stitch knit-wise bring yarn to back slip purl-wise, turn work – if on purl side bring yarn to back slip stitch purl-wise bring yarn to front slip stitch purl-wise and turn work

  Picking up wraps = Knit side – lift wrap from under and place on needle behind the stitch that it was wrapped and knit them together through the back loops; Purl side – lift wrap from the RS of work and place on needle untwisted and p2tog

CO 175 (185, 195, 205, 215) with MC using 2x1 ribbed long tail cast on method and size 8 needle

Rows 1-3, & 6: Complete a 2x1 rib (k2, p1) in MC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2) (each size isn’t perfectly divisible by 3, so you’ll have an extra stitch or two at the end of the row depended on the size.)

Rows 4, 5, 7, & 8: Complete a 2x1 rib in CC ending with k1(k2, -, k1, k2)

Continue ribbing as noted about with MC only until total ribbed edge is approximately 3 (3, 4, 4.5, 5) inches or until desired length.

Begin decreases (side shaping) as follows (dec. 4st every 5 rows 7x):

Row 1: s1 k36 (38, 41, 44, 47), ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k75 (81, 85, 89, 93), ssk, PM, k1, PM, k2tog, k49 (51, 54, 57, 60), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 2 & 4: s1, purl to end of row (EOR)

Rows 3 & 5: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 6: s1, p51 (53, 56, 59, 62), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl (<-- this may be confusing you, refer to abbreviations page!), p73 (79, 83, 87, 91), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p36 (38, 41, 44, 47)

Rows 7 & 9: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 8 & 10: s1, purl to EOR

Row 11: s1, k34 (36, 39, 42, 45), ssk, k1, k2tog, k71 (77, 81, 85, 89), ssk, k1, k2tog, k47 (49, 52, 55, 58), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 12 & 14: s1, purl to EOR

Rows 13 & 15: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 16: s1, p49 (51, 54, 57, 60), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p69 (75, 79, 83, 87), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p34 (36, 39, 42, 45)

Rows 17 & 19: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 18 & 20: s1, purl to EOR

Row 21: s1, k32 (34, 37, 40, 43), ssk, k1, k2tog, k67 (73, 77, 81, 85), ssk, k1, k2tog, k45 (47, 50, 53, 56), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 22 & 24: s1, purl to EOR

Rows 23 & 25: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 26: s1, p47 (49, 52, 55, 58), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p65 (71, 75, 79, 83), p2tog, p1, p2tog tbl, p32 (34, 37, 40, 43)

Rows 27 & 29: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 28 & 30: s1, purl to EOR

Row 31: s1, k30 (32, 35, 38, 41), ssk, k1, k2tog, k63 (69, 73, 77, 81), ssk, k1, k2tog, k43 (45, 48, 51, 54), p1, k1, p1, k1

Knit in stockinette st. for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.75) inches being sure to continue edging pattern on the RS rows only (knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1). End with a WS row. You can hold the sweater around you to test fit. You should be just above waist (smallest part of torso). Make alterations as needed – knit more or less as everyone’s body is different!

Begin increases as follows (inc. 4st every 5 rows 6x):

Row 1: s1, k31 (33, 36, 39, 42), m1r, k1, m1L, k65 (71, 75, 79, 83), m1r, k1, k1L, k44 (46, 49, 52, 55), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 2 & 4: s1, purl to EOR

Rows 3 & 5: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 6: s1, p48 (50, 53, 56, 59), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p67 (73, 77, 81, 85), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p33 (35, 38, 41, 44)

Rows 7 & 9: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 8 & 10: s1, purl to EOR

Row 11: s1, k33 (35, 38, 41, 44), m1r, k1, m1L, k69 (75, 79, 83, 87), m1r, k1, m1L, k46 (48, 51, 54, 57), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 12 & 14: s1, purl to EOR

Rows 13 & 15: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 16: s1, p50 (52, 55, 58, 61), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p71 (77, 81, 85, 89), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p35 (37, 40, 43, 46)

Rows 17 & 19: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 18 & 20: s1, purl to EOR

Row 21: s1, k35 (37, 40, 43, 46), m1r, k1, m1L, k73 (79, 83, 87, 91), m1r, k1, m1L, k48 (50, 53, 56, 59), p1, k1, p1, k1

Rows 22 & 24: s1, purl to EOR

Rows 23 & 25: s1, knit until 4 sts remain, p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 26: s1, p52 (54, 57, 60, 63), m1rP, p1, m1LP, p75 (81, 85, 89, 93), m1rP, p1, m1Lp, p37 (39, 42, 45, 48)

You should have 4 less stitches than you CO with – 171 (181, 191, 201, 211)

Knit until total piece measures 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) inches and place all stitches on hold using waste yarn. This is a good time to wrap the sweater around you to see if you need to knit more or less. Sweater should reach right up to under arm.

Sleeves (knit in the round):

Using a provisional CO, cast on 36 (38, 40, 42, 44) stitches with a size US 10 needle (CO more stitches for a looser fit). Place a marker at the beginning of your round.

Knit in a 2x1 rib for 3”; switch to a size US 8 needle and continue for another 1.5”

Transition round from cuff to rest of sleeve: ssk, k1, k2tog, k13 (14, 15, 16, 17), ssk, k1, k2tog, knit to EOR

Knit in stockinette stitch for 1”

Increase 2sts every 9^th row 5x as follows:

Round 1: k1, m1L, knit until 1 stitch before end of round, m1R k1

Rounds 2-9: knit

Repeat rounds 1 through 9 four more times.

Increase 2sts every 7^th row in the same manner as above for a total of 5 times.

You should have 52 (54, 56, 58, 60) sts

Knit in stockinette stitch until sleeve measures 17 (17.5, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5)” – try on to make sure it reaches right to the crease of the armpit. It shouldn’t come up over the shoulder yet.

Place stitches on hold and cut yarn leaving an 8” tail.

Repeat this for the other sleeve and place these stitches on hold as well.

Note: As this was one of my first patterns – the first attempt (the dark green) was done with the drop shoulder technique. The second (brown and white) was done using the raglan sleeve  technique. I’ve found the raglan to produce a more satisfying fit, so I’ve written the pattern accordingly. 

Attaching sleeves to body:

Note: Remove any markers as you come to them.

Begin to re-thread your needles through the body piece (RS facing you rethread from right to left) until you reach 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts before your first marker (this will make your front right) – place the next 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts on hold from body piece. Pick up all but the inside 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts from one sleeve (that will remain on hold – your increases should mark the center of these sts), and continue to pick up the body stitches (back side) until you reach 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) sts before first marker on backside (back left) – place the next 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts on hold. Pick up all but the inside 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts (will remain on hold) from sleeve and pick up the remaining stitches on body (front left).

Join in new yarn.

 Knit 1 row, slipping the 1^st stitch

Purl 1 row, slipping the 1^st stitch

227 (241, 255, 261, 275) sts should be on the needle.

 

Shoulder Shaping (raglan):

Row 1 (RS): s1, k24 (27, 30, 32, 35), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k34 (36, 37, 37, 39), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k66 (70, 75, 77, 81), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k34 (36, 37, 37, 39), ssk, PM, k2, PM, k2tog, k40 (43, 47, 49, 52), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 2: s1, purl to EOR

Row 3: s1, k23 (26, 29, 31, 34), ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 35, 35, 37), ssk, k2, k2tog, k64 (68, 73, 75, 79), ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 35, 35, 37), ssk, k2, k2tog, k39 (42, 46, 48, 51), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 4: s1, purl to EOR

Row 5: s1 k22 (25, 28, 30, 33) ssk, k2, k2tog, k30 (32, 33, 33, 35), ssk, k2, k2tog, k62 (66, 71, 73, 77), ssk, k2, k2tog, k30 (32, 33, 33, 35), ssk, k2, k2tog, k38 (41, 45, 47, 50), p1 k1, p1, k1

Row 6: s1, purl to EOR

Row 7: s1, k21 (24, 27, 29, 32), ssk, k2, k2tog, k28 (30, 31, 31, 33), ssk, k2, k2tog, k60 (64, 69, 71, 75), ssk, k2, k2tog, k28 (30, 31, 31, 33), ssk, k2, k2tog, k37 (40, 44, 46, 49), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 8: s1, purl to EOR

Row 9: s1, k20 (23, 26, 28, 31), ssk, k2, k2tog, k26 (28, 29, 29, 31), ssk, k2, k2tog, k58 (62, 67, 69, 73), ssk, k2, k2tog, k26 (28, 29, 29, 31), ssk, k2, k2tog, k36 (39, 43, 45, 48), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 10: s1, purl to EOR

Row 11: s1, k19 (22, 25, 27, 30), ssk, k2, k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 27, 29), ssk, k2, k2tog, k56 (60, 65, 67, 71), ssk, k2, k2tog, k24 (26, 27, 27, 29), ssk, k2, k2tog, k35 (38, 42, 44, 47), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 12: s1, purl to EOR

Row 13: s1, k18 (21, 24, 26, 29), ssk, k2, k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 25, 27), ssk, k2, k2tog, k54 (58, 63, 65, 69), ssk, k2, k2tog, k22 (24, 25, 25, 27), ssk, k2, k2tog, k34 (37, 41, 43, 46), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 14: s1, purl to EOR

Row 15: s1, k17 (20, 23, 25, 28), ssk, k2, k2tog, k20 (22, 23, 23, 25), ssk, k2, k2tog, k52 (56, 61, 63, 67), ssk, k2, k2tog, k20 (22, 23, 23, 25), ssk, k2, k2tog, k33 (36, 40, 42, 45), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 16: s1, purl to EOR

Row 17: s1, k16 (19, 22, 24, 27), ssk, k2, k2tog, k18 (20, 21, 21, 23), ssk, k2, k2tog, k50 (54, 59, 61, 65), ssk, k2, k2tog, k18 (20, 21, 21, 23), ssk, k2, k2tog, k32 (34, 38, 40, 44), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 18: s1, purl to EOR

Row 19: s1, k15 (18, 21, 23, 26), ssk, k2, k2tog, k16 (18, 19, 19, 21), ssk, k2, k2tog, k48 (52, 57, 59, 63), ssk, k2, k2tog, k16 (18, 19, 19, 21), ssk, k2, k2tog, k31 (33, 37, 39, 43), p1, k1, p1, k1

Row 20: s1, purl to EOR

You should now have 80 less stitches.

Back Shaping:

 Knit until 4st before back left marker WT

purl until 3st before back right marker WT

*knit until 2st before last wrapped st WT

purl until 2st before last wrapped st WT*

Repeat last two rows

Knit across picking up wraps (3) until  2^nd to last st before back left marker WT

 purl picking up wraps (3) until 2^nd to last stitch before marker WT

 knit across picking in the last knit wrapped stitch and knit all the way across

Purl back picking up last wrapped stitch

 Knit in stockinette stitch for 2 (2, 4, 4, 4) rows

Collar:

Complete 2x1 ribbing for 3” ending with a RS row (ready to knit a WS row). 

RS row: *k2, p1* to EOR (Note: Your size may not end up with a divisible by 3 number for the collar, that’s okay, just knit the extra stitch or two at the end of the row.)

WS row:

If you ended your RS row with a k1, then you will do p1, *k1, p2* to EOR.

If you ended your RS row with a knit 2, then you will do p2, *k1, p2* to EOR

If you ended your RS row with a p1, then you will do *k1, p2* to EOR

We are now going to be doing a 2x1 ribbing on the WS (which will become the right side when folded). Do exactly what you did above, but reverse.

BO the 12st from sleeve and under the arms using a three needle BO from the inside of your garment.

Add button holes to your liking using the Japanese technique - whipstitch a hole wherever you want your buttons – or use any technique you like!

Sew up the holes at the underarms and sew in all your ends!

Wet block and lay flat to dry for a day or two.

Copyright 2011, Alisha Bright. All Rights Reserved.